Tag Archives: Connemara

ireland-with-children-connemara-clifden-main-street

A Windy Stop in Clifden Connemara Ireland

ireland-with-children-connemara-clifden-main-street

On a wet and windy April afternoon we stopped in Clifden, Co. Galway for lunch. It was so wet it was foggy. CAM joked that “the fog wasn’t really fog, it was because in Ireland the rain clouds are so heavy they’re almost on the ground”.
But getting a little wet in the rain has never deterred us from taking a walk especially when a good leg-stretch will blow out mental cobwebs gathered from sitting in the car all the way from Dublin. We took a walk down towards the harbor, on a path that was signposted “Sli na Slainte” – that’s Gaelic for “healthy walk”.

ireland-with-children-connemara-clifden-bay-view

At the bottom of the hill, I got this great shot looking back across the bay at the town.

ireland-with-children-connemara-clifden-windy-walk

The wind had picked up even more as we made our way back to our car. My kids stood, feet planted wide apart, trying to see if the wind could blow them down or at least blow off a jacket.

Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more travel-themed Friday photo fun.

Like what you’ve read and interested in reading more? Subscribe to the WanderMom rss feed, follow me on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

Related Posts

[catlist tags=Ireland]

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Scenes From Connemara

clifden-in-the-rain

Clifden in the rain.

renvyle-house-hotel-bay-view

Renvyle House Hotel from across the bay.

omey-island-atlantic-coast

The world’s end: facing west on Omey Island.

Related Posts
Ireland With Kids
First Stop Clifden
Recess Connemara Giant
Connemara National Park
Crowdsourcing In Connemara

Like what you’ve read? Subscribe for updates via RSS, Email, follow me on Twitter.

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Dinner At Renvyle House Hotel

Appetizers: Goat Cheese and Seafood Chowder.

renvyle-house-goat-cheese

renvyle-house-seafood-chowder

Main Courses: Irish Lamb and Grilled Turbot

renvyle-house-irish-lamb

renvyle-house-grilled-turbot

Dessert: Irish Cheese Plate and Raspberry Pie

renvyle-house-irish-cheese-plate

renvyle-house-raspberry-pie

Like what you’ve read and interested in reading more? Subscribe to the WanderMom rss feed, follow me on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

Related Posts
[catlist tags=Ireland]

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email
ireland-with-children-connemara-granuaile-castle

Connemara Secrets

granuaile-castle-renvyle

I’m a sucker for stories of strong women in history particularly if the story involves a strong woman who was able to succeed in a man’s world long before the rights and privileges afforded to most women today (in the developed world at least) were available. Granuaile was such a woman. A pirate captain who ruled the seas around Ireland (the west coast anyway) in the 16th century, she’s a fascinating character to read about. When I discovered that the castle she sacked on hearing that her first husband had played away from home was just a short distance from our hotel in Renvyle, I had to go check it out. The castle was an easy cycle from the hotel and, although you do feel like you’re taking your life into your hands when you walk or cycle on rural roads in Ireland – particularly with kids on rented bikes, it was a great way to start our day. (And yes, I did climb over barbed wire and tromp through mud just to check out a small, run-down, 15th century castle. BigB thought I’d temporarily lost my marbles.)

harry-clarke-tullycross-church

Exercise over for the day, we set off on a “local’s favorites” tour of the area, guided by my aunt Joan. Our first stop was to admire the Harry Clarke stained glass windows in the (tiny) church in (equally tiny) Tullycross. It was a short stop since our boys were decidedly not interested in getting out of the car. Not really knowing what to expect, I didn’t spend any time cajoling them to come along – which I regretted immediately once we got inside the church. Next time.

omey-island-causeway

We stopped at Oliver St. John Gogarty’s grave to pay our respects before heading towards Cleggan, a very picturesque fishing village, and from there on to Claddaghduff. Our destination was Omey Island. I’d never even heard of Omey Island before we set out and my aunt, while singing Omey’s praises and giving us lots of detailed local history, completely neglected to mention that Omey is a tidal island. We came around a bend in the road and she stopped the car abruptly. “Now”, she said. “Where’s your camera?”. I realized that I was supposed to get out of the car and take a photo of the view of the Omey Island causeway :)

omey-island-road-signs

Driving across the sand gave a whole new meaning to the word “road” – even if there were road signs marking the way. Omey did not disappoint. The boys were off in an instant exploring the rocky beach where we’d parked. I was happy snapping away trying, but not quite succeeding, to capture some of the beauty of this fractured Atlantic coast with my camera.

omey-island-atlantic-coast

With hungry boys in the car, we stopped at Cleggan for something to eat before returning to our hotel, happy and lucky, to have been introduced to Omey Island.

Like what you’ve read and interested in reading more? Subscribe to the WanderMom rss feed, follow me on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

Related Posts
[catlist tags=Ireland]

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Renvyle House Hotel Connemara

renvyle-house-hotel-connemara

I was blown in the door of the Renvyle House Hotel by gale force winds and almost immediately tripped over two preschoolers playing tag in the lobby. I had to step quickly out of the way and only took a brief look at the surroundings before checking in. I’d been reading about the history of Renvyle House (A Sea-Grey House) prior to our visit so I was full of facts about the property but I’d been struggling to picture the buildings in my head. There are many large manor houses and castles in Ireland, but I didn’t expect that. I also knew it wouldn’t be a modern hotel. The actual property is modest in proportion but warm and inviting and in a truly beautiful location.

Arriving during a holiday weekend when the weather was miserable was a perfect time to see how and why this hotel is rated as one of the most family-friendly places to stay in Ireland. On the main floor, there is a large, staffed indoor play-space for children (12 and younger) with toys, games, arts and crafts – and a TV in the corner. Parents can opt for children to eat evening meals in this area instead of in the restaurant – kid-free dinner, how cool is that? There’s also a lounge area along one side of the building and a cosy, comfortable bar. For us weary travelers, Renvyle was a perfect place in which to find a corner to relax and unwind. My favorite part about the hotel was the way all the staff seemed to be completely unfazed by the many kids playing around them – in fact, more than glad to see them running around and having fun.

renvyle-house-hotel-family-suites

Various family members had told me about a recent trend in Irish hotels where larger rooms, usually suites intended for families, are built onto the hotel property giving guests with children the best of both worlds: the spaciousness of a two-room apartment with access to hotel facilities. Our room at the Renvyle House was the first time I’d experienced staying at this kind of development and I whole-heartedly approve. There are four such apartments at the back of the hotel, nicely integrated into the look and feel of the original hotel building. With two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a comfortable sitting room, our suite was just the right size for us to spread out and relax after our travels. My one, minor suggestion to the management to make these suites perfect would be to furnish each with a fridge and microwave – if only to store leftovers from the sumptuous and generous meals provided in the hotel restaurant.

renvyle-connemara-dawn

The next morning jet-lag had my husband and I awake with the birds. Our boys were still sleeping soundly – the previous day’s walk in the wind in Clifden must have had the desired effect of helping them knock their jet-lag on the head. I checked online and found that sunrise would be within the next ten minutes. Deciding that it would be fun walk on the beach at sunrise we shook CAM awake, told him we were going for a short walk, and headed out. It was raining, a drizzle at first but developing into a full downpour as daylight sneaked up on us over the next half hour. We went from struggling to see the ground ahead to admiring the view of Inisbofin in the distance but it took a lot longer than ten minutes – there’s obviously a Connemara sunrise adjustment interval to confuse unsuspecting visitors.

renvyle-house-beach

This being day three of our trip, operation time-zone-adjustment was still in effect for all of us. In other words, we needed plenty of active time outside today – rain or no rain. Over breakfast we asked our waiter about hikes in the area. He directed us to Connemara National Park in Letterfrack and as I described in an earlier post, it was a great recommendation. When we returned to the hotel in the evening, I discovered that the hotel offers many activities for guests – classes in yoga and sea angling, for example. We perused those and the information on local attractions. I came up with a plan which I thought would work well for my boys and their grandparents (who would be with us the following day) but I didn’t count on my aunt, who lives in the area. As a local, she had very definite ideas about where to take us to get a truly “off the beaten path” experience. You’ll have to check back to discover the places to which she introduced us :)

Like what you’ve read and interested in reading more? Subscribe to the WanderMom rss feed, follow me on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

Related Posts
[catlist tags=Ireland]

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Recess Connemara Giant

connemara-giant-recess

When we stopped in Recess on the first day of our trip, we parked right by this sign. Of course we had to check out the actual item.

connemara-giant-recess-2

In particular, my kids thought this was excellent:

connemara-giant-info

Personally, I thought this one was better:

recess-connemara-marble-sign

Although, the slab of Connemara marble in which it was placed was really very pretty.

recess-connemara-marble

I’m very sure that even though our stop in Recess was brief, by the time we hit the road again, our kids had no doubts that they were definitely not in Kansas (or even Seattle) any more.

Like what you’ve read? Subscribe for updates via RSS, Email, follow me on Twitter.

Related Posts
Connemara National Park
Crowdsourcing In Connemara

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Irish Pub Food

IMG 2310

Lunch at E.J. Kings in Clifden, Connemara in Ireland. You may have thought that Irish food was all about over-cooked vegetables and mashed potatoes. Well, it’s not. I found this type of meal, with fresh salad, homemade bread and smoked salmon, a standard menu offering in many of the places where we ate during our trip.

Related Posts
Connemara National Park
Crowdsourcing In Connemara
First Stop Clifden

Like what you’ve read? Subscribe for updates via RSS, Email, follow me on Twitter.

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

First Stop Clifden

connemara

We’d been told about the new motorway from Dublin to Galway, but I don’t think either of us actually believed that it would only take us two hours to cross Ireland from East to West. In fact, it was an extremely pleasant drive, and yes, we were navigating the (many) roundabouts on the outskirts of Galway city an easy two hours after leaving Dublin. (The fact that it took us 45 minutes to get out of Dublin because of my woeful navigation notwithstanding). Still jet-lagged, our boys slept soundly almost all the way. This was good and bad. Good, because we had a peaceful drive, and bad because even though the drive to Galway city was short, we still had at least another hour to go and we knew that it would be important to get our kids outside and running around if we were to have any hope of a decent night’s sleep that night.

On the road to Clifden, it seemed that Galway city stretched out much further than I remembered and I wondered if my quest to go to Connemara to be off the beaten path in Ireland was ill-conceived. My fears quickly dissipated as we left Oughterard and instead I was rendered speechless by the scenery. The boys were awake by the time we drove into Recess so they spotted this gable-end sign and howled in disbelief. Of course we had to stop and take a photo!

joyces-crafts-recess

Tiny though it is, there were plenty of fun and funny photo opportunities in Recess. Photos taken, we decided to stop in Clifden for lunch before continuing on to Renvyle. This turned out to be a perfect choice. The lunch crowd at E.J. King’s on the Square in Clifden was just thinning as we arrived for our first pub lunch of the trip. As we waited for our food (smoked salmon, fresh homemade brown bread and Guinness), CAM took this photo of his Dad – which he titled “An Irishman Happy In His Natural Environment”.

ejkings-clifden

Even though the wind was blowing steadily when we left the pub, a brisk walk down to the harbor seemed like a good idea. As we started down the hill out of town, I noticed a cheery yellow “Sli na Slainte” (schlee na schlawnte) sign. I’d read the words aloud almost as if to remind myself that I could do so not really paying attention to BigB at my side. He thought the words sounded hilarious. With a serious Mommy voice, I tried to explain that the phrase meant Path to Health but he was off, racing down the hill repeating his new catchphrase over and over as he ran, accenting the words differently and playing with the sounds to his heart’s content.

By the time we were on our way back from the harbor, the wind had really picked up and it was starting to rain. Normally, I’d expect my boys to be complaining in full voice at being outside in such weather but whether it was the giddiness of jet-lag or just the enjoyment of being on vacation, they were in high spirits. CAM turned around to face me and discovered in so doing that the wind blew out his jacket and almost swept him into the water. Naturally then they both had to try to hold their ground against nature.

clifden-harbor

Within an hour we were all checked into the Renvyle House Hotel, our home for the next three nights. It had been a short, but fun, first day of our vacation-within-a-vacation in Connemara.

Like what you’ve read? Subscribe for updates via RSS, Email, follow me on Twitter.

Related Posts
Connemara National Park
Crowdsourcing In Connemara

We were invited to stay at the Renvyle House Hotel by the management in order to review the property for CiaoBambino.com.

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Connemara National Park

diamond-hill-connemara

This is the trail map for the Diamond Hill hike in Connemara, Ireland, one of the most unusual hikes we’ve ever done. The trailhead is at the entrance to the Connemara National Park visitor center in Letterfrack, Galway. The hike, with an elevation gain of 1,350 feet (400 meters), is an easy walk on the lower loop (blue section above), a little more challenging at the start of the red section of the trail heading up the mountain and downright difficult with a steep incline on stone steps at the top.

diamond-hill-summit-view

Even though it was a little cloudy as we started out, we had a clear view west across the valley towards the Atlantic for most of our hike. The lower sections of the hike alternate between a gravel trail and a wooden path over the blanket bog. This trail opens up safe access to the bogland which is a great bonus for the park. The amount of visible standing water is remarkable – if you’re ever looking for a visual definition of “sodden”, then this, in my opinion, would be it. Once above the lower trail, though, the terrain changes dramatically from wet bog to exposed rock interspersed with pockets of bog, grasses and heathers.

diamond-hill-trail

While picking my way up to the top – and marvelling at how BigB could chatter non-stop as I huffed and puffed my way along beside him – I was intrigued at the construction of the trail. Large amounts of gravel and stone had been brought up the mountain and carefully laid to create the path. I later learned from my uncle, who lives in the area, that the construction materials had been deposited at the top by helicopter and that the trail construction had taken about six months.

The view from the top is spectacular. You can see Kylemore Abbey (or, “Irish Hogwarts” as my boys nicknamed it) below and, if it’s clear, stunning views eastwards across the Twelve Bens and westwards out onto the Atlantic.

connemara-sheep

If anything, the trail gradient seems steeper on the way down from the top and I would caution against trying this hike with very young children since a slight mis-step could lead to a nasty accident. Also, don’t try this hike without decent rain gear and good hiking shoes. Our luck with the weather ran out as we were coming down the upper section of the trail. It was only a 15-minute shower and we, in Seattle-tested outerwear, were warm and dry inside our rain gear but the jackets themselves were absolutely soaked. That said, by the time we approached the visitor center at the end of the hike, the sun was shining again. The path really flattens out here with fields on either side and sheep, lots of sheep.

The visitor center at the park is worth checking out before you leave. Even though CAM groaned about having to “visit a museum about a bog!!”, the displays provide plenty of interesting information about this unusual ecosystem and it’s place in Irish history and language (my favorite: the display listing the myriad words for bog in Irish Gaelic).

The park lands, currently owned by the State, were once part of Kylemore Abbey Estate and the Letterfrack Industrial School. The park buildings were all part of the Industrial School. This school, which operated from 1885 to 1974 is an ugly part of the history of Ireland (you can read details about this in reports produced by the Irish Child Abuse Commission). Some may wish that these buildings had been demolished as a way to remove this ugly history. Personally, I’m glad that the history has been preserved and these buildings, which saw so much pain and suffering, are now being used for something good.

Like what you’ve read and interested in reading more? Subscribe to the WanderMom rss feed, follow me on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

Related Posts
[catlist tags=Ireland]

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email

Crowdsourcing In Connemara

connemara-sign

I spotted the sign above in the restroom at the Connemara National Park visitor center in Letterfrack, Ireland. The hand-written sign was obviously placed by the center management. The multiple translations added to the sign in many different hands gives a linguistic record of the nationalities of people who have visited the park since.

Like what you’ve read? Subscribe for updates via RSS, Email, follow me on Twitter.

Share and Enjoy

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Google Plus
  • StumbleUpon
  • LinkedIn
  • Email