Tag Archives: Connemara National Park

Connemara National Park

diamond-hill-connemara

This is the trail map for the Diamond Hill hike in Connemara, Ireland, one of the most unusual hikes we’ve ever done. The trailhead is at the entrance to the Connemara National Park visitor center in Letterfrack, Galway. The hike, with an elevation gain of 1,350 feet (400 meters), is an easy walk on the lower loop (blue section above), a little more challenging at the start of the red section of the trail heading up the mountain and downright difficult with a steep incline on stone steps at the top.

diamond-hill-summit-view

Even though it was a little cloudy as we started out, we had a clear view west across the valley towards the Atlantic for most of our hike. The lower sections of the hike alternate between a gravel trail and a wooden path over the blanket bog. This trail opens up safe access to the bogland which is a great bonus for the park. The amount of visible standing water is remarkable – if you’re ever looking for a visual definition of “sodden”, then this, in my opinion, would be it. Once above the lower trail, though, the terrain changes dramatically from wet bog to exposed rock interspersed with pockets of bog, grasses and heathers.

diamond-hill-trail

While picking my way up to the top – and marvelling at how BigB could chatter non-stop as I huffed and puffed my way along beside him – I was intrigued at the construction of the trail. Large amounts of gravel and stone had been brought up the mountain and carefully laid to create the path. I later learned from my uncle, who lives in the area, that the construction materials had been deposited at the top by helicopter and that the trail construction had taken about six months.

The view from the top is spectacular. You can see Kylemore Abbey (or, “Irish Hogwarts” as my boys nicknamed it) below and, if it’s clear, stunning views eastwards across the Twelve Bens and westwards out onto the Atlantic.

connemara-sheep

If anything, the trail gradient seems steeper on the way down from the top and I would caution against trying this hike with very young children since a slight mis-step could lead to a nasty accident. Also, don’t try this hike without decent rain gear and good hiking shoes. Our luck with the weather ran out as we were coming down the upper section of the trail. It was only a 15-minute shower and we, in Seattle-tested outerwear, were warm and dry inside our rain gear but the jackets themselves were absolutely soaked. That said, by the time we approached the visitor center at the end of the hike, the sun was shining again. The path really flattens out here with fields on either side and sheep, lots of sheep.

The visitor center at the park is worth checking out before you leave. Even though CAM groaned about having to “visit a museum about a bog!!”, the displays provide plenty of interesting information about this unusual ecosystem and it’s place in Irish history and language (my favorite: the display listing the myriad words for bog in Irish Gaelic).

The park lands, currently owned by the State, were once part of Kylemore Abbey Estate and the Letterfrack Industrial School. The park buildings were all part of the Industrial School. This school, which operated from 1885 to 1974 is an ugly part of the history of Ireland (you can read details about this in reports produced by the Irish Child Abuse Commission). Some may wish that these buildings had been demolished as a way to remove this ugly history. Personally, I’m glad that the history has been preserved and these buildings, which saw so much pain and suffering, are now being used for something good.

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Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

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Crowdsourcing In Connemara

connemara-sign

I spotted the sign above in the restroom at the Connemara National Park visitor center in Letterfrack, Ireland. The hand-written sign was obviously placed by the center management. The multiple translations added to the sign in many different hands gives a linguistic record of the nationalities of people who have visited the park since.

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Road Trip Ireland Part III – Into The West

killary-harbour-ireland

In this final post in this series on visiting Ireland I’ll be describing the places we plan to visit during our upcoming trip. We haven’t been to Ireland since 2005 (I can’t complain, we’ve met up with our extended family in Portugal, Cyprus and Italy in the intervening period) so we’re all excited at the chance to re-aquaint ourselves with the Emerald Isle. We have two weddings to go to while we’re there so our trip itinerary looks something like: 1.Spend a few days being tourists; 2.Meet family and attend wedding; 3.Spend a few more days being tourists; 4.Meet family and attend wedding; 5.Return to Seattle.

renvyle-ireland

For our first few touristy days, we’re going to head west. We’ll be staying at Renvyle House Hotel, waaaay out in Connemara – so far off the beaten track that one of it’s earlier owners, Oliver St.John Gogarty, once described it as “the world’s end”. The scenery in this region is barren and windswept and utterly gorgeous. We plan to hike in Connemara National Park, spend a day exploring Clifden and take a day trip to the Aran Islands. We’ll round out this section of our trip with a night or two in Galway city. Oysters and Guinness at Moran’s Oyster Cottage is definitely on the cards and sure we may stop at Oranmore just for the hell of letting our boys belt out The Galway Shawl as we drive through – they already know all the words anyway.

benbulben-ireland

We’re still deliberating on what to do during our second touristy jaunt. Here’s a sampling of the ideas we’re playing with – you’ll have to check back in late April to find out what we actually did:

Sligo. My Mom’s family is from Sligo and my great-great-grandfather was mayor of the city in 1882 and 1884 during which time he donated the city’s mayoral chain. (He was also MP for North Sligo in 1891 as a member of the anti-Parnellite Irish National Federation. Obviously he wasn’t OK with Parnell’s meanderings with Kitty O’Shea. Tut tut.) Yet my children have never actually been here. I can see them enjoying beach walks at Rosses Point or Strandhill or the hike up to (fairy) Queen Maeve’s grave at Knocknarea. A visit to Yeats’s grave at Drumcliff would be required as well as some walks around Lough Gill. Although, I can see my boys revolting if we make them go for a walk to see an island (Innisfree) and a rock (Dooney) that somebody wrote a poem about nearly hundred years ago – even if Yeats did win the Nobel Prize for his literary skill.

Derry (or LondonDerry). Call me crazy. I think getting a video of my kids doing a rendition of Danny Boy on the Derry city walls would be one for the family video archive. If you could, you’d be tempted too, right? (If we do this, I’m 100% sure it’ll sound more like the Muppets rendition below than Daniel O’Donnell).

Whiskey and Beer. Since the WanderDad has been so diligent in teaching our boys Irish ballads, they can also do a mean version of The Irish Rover (we’re such responsible parents). So he thinks it would be perfectly appropriate for us to visit the Guinness, Smithwicks and Murphy’s breweries (in Dublin, Kilkenny and Cork respectively) and the Bushmills and Midleton distilleries (in Antrim and Cork). Apart from the fact that to do so we’d have to drive from one end of the country to the other and back, I’m pretty sure my kids would be all done with this theme after the first stop.

If you have any opinions on any of the above – or any other ideas for what we should do during our week between weddings, leave a comment.

Related Posts
Road Trip Ireland Part I – The South Coast
Road Trip Ireland Part II – Dublin To Belfast
An overview of visiting Ireland with kids .

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Photo Credit: revnancy, theq47, michaelclarke

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