Category Archives: Europe

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National Trails Day at Glendalough

Glendalough

October 4th being National Trails Day in Ireland we took ourselves off to Glendalough, Co Wicklow to support this worthwhile event and to give the Small Boy more practice in his new backpack.

glendalough-church.jpgWe chose Glendalough because it ticks a number of boxes for walking/hiking with an infant. For one thing It is an easy commute from Dublin,  so there’s no real interruption to sleeping schedules if your infant takes a nap en route. There is ample parking as well as good baby-changing/diapering facilities in the Visitors Centre. The trails are also well marked with plenty of rest areas and benches for quick pit-stops and feeds. Finally, though some trails ascend the hills either side of the lakes you can, if you are feeling less energetic, just walk the paths between the two lakes and admire the views.

Glendalough Round Tower

Glendalough History

Glendalough which derives its name from the Gaelic, Gleann Da Lough or Glen of the two lakes, is one of my favourite places because it is beautiful in any weather and because it is rich in geography, history, myth and legend. The valley was carved out by glaciers during the last Ice Age with the two lakes emerging when the ice eventually thawed. It boasts one of Ireland’s earliest Christian monastic settlements built in the 6th Century by St. Kevin about whom there are a host of legends, not least that he lived as a hermit in a cave above the lakes, was pursued by a blue eyed woman called Kathleen and lived to be 120! The remains of the monastic city are nonetheless impressive, and include a 30 meter round tower, priests’ house and “cathedral”.

Favorite Hike At Glendalough

For our National Trails Day walk, we stuck to the lake paths and wandered around the shores of the upper lake for a while before the Small Boy started to let us know he had had enough. For those with older children used to walking, our favourite hike is the 5k Glendalough Miners Walk. This is a popular trail which loops around from the upper car park past the deserted miners settlement. Not only has this trail the best views back down over the two lakes and the monastic city there is also a herd of wild deer which we’ve been lucky enough to see from time to time!

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Photo credits: mattandkim

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Photo Friday: Wicklow Way

WicklowWay

MT’s mention of the Wicklow Way in her recent post made me realize that I really don’t write about Ireland enough on this blog. So today I thought I’d redress that a little by sharing some photos of the scenery along this 127km trail which winds through the Dublin and Wicklow mountains.

DjouceMt

Mountains in Ireland are one of the reasons why it’s a fantastic family hiking destination. The mountains are old (literally, they’re ‘old fold mountains’ as opposed to ‘new fold mountains’ such as the Himalayas) and weathered and therefore perfect for hikes with young children who aren’t quite ready for steep inclines. Not to mention that in Ireland it’s hard to walk anywhere without having to pass a dell, glade or valley or even a pile of rocks which is named after a fairy, giant, prince or saint – all good fodder for young imaginations and a great way to distract from the efforts of hiking.

Powerscourt Waterfall

Powerscourt Waterfall with Djouce Mt in the background.

Wicklow Way 2

Powerscourt Grounds

And that photo, my friends, clearly shows why Ireland is called ‘The Emerald Isle’. If you’re planning a visit, make sure you have good rain gear because there’s a price for all that greenery, and yes, it means that it rains in Ireland pretty much in every season.

We stayed in this area on an extended visit to Ireland in 2000 and hiked around the Tibradden Mt. with our boys, then 4 and 6 months. The abundance of sheep was a fun distraction – especially when the sheep were looking in our kitchen window. For our trip, we rented one of these Dublin Cottages which I highly recommend.

Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more Photo Friday fun.

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Photo credits: pleeker, miert, martindo, don_quilty

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Ye Olde English Sweet Shoppe

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Here’s a funny thing: I’ve no idea whether or not sweet shops (candy stores) such as the one pictured above ever existed in the U.S. or not. This Mr. Simms Olde Sweet Shoppe is in Falmouth, England. The jars of sweets, especially the boiled sweets, reminded me of the thrill of excitement my sisters and I had just buying candy when we were very little. Choosing which sweets to buy from the shelves of jars such as you can see through the window in this photo was a delightful yet tortuous process – for us and, I’m sure, for my parents.

Wander on over to DeliciousBaby for more Photo Friday fun!

Related Posts:
Farm Shops In Cornwall
Trebah Gardens
Public Transport Options From Heathrow To Central London

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Trebah Gardens

I took these photos at Trebah Gardens in Cornwall when we visited earlier this year but I saved them for today – you’ll see why below.
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This view of the gardens was taken from in front of the house looking down on the gardens towards the bay. According to the history of the gardens, this is where Charles Fox stood as he designed the layout of the gardens. I was in plant-lover heaven during our visit to Trebah, it’s just a riot of natural beauty.
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For example, this weird and wonderful-looking specimen is a nascent Gunnera (Chilean Rhubarb) plant. When fully grown, the leaves of the plant are four to eight feet in diameter presenting, as Darwin described, “a very noble appearance”. The Gunnera section in Trebah is fairly large and is, I’m sure, an imposing sight at the peak of the growing season.

The kids, of course, didn’t find the gardens themselves as interesting as I did. That’s OK, BigB and his cousin C could have spent all day playing on the rope swing.

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And when we did make our way through the garden down to the beach, BigB got a stone skipping lesson from Uncle D.

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While WanderDad, Uncle D and BigB were busy searching for the perfect stone and competing for the title of ‘Stone Skipper Champion’, I took a look around the beach area. And I found this:

DDayPlaque

Tomorrow is June 6th 2009, 65 years since the D-Day landings. I found it pretty powerful to stand in front of this plaque and imagine the activity on this same beach at that time. A somber moment on a fun-filled day.

P.S. If you’re reading this Dad, Happy Birthday!!

Enjoy more Photo Friday fun at DeliciousBaby.

Related Posts:
Proposed Cornwall Trip Itinerary
Farm Shops In Cornwall

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All About Tulips At Eden Project

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For Photo Friday today, I’m sharing my totally self-indulgent flower photos. Much easier to capture in the right pose than children will ever be :) These photos were taken at the Mediterranean Biome of the Eden Project in Cornwall, UK in March. By now, I hope you’ve been able to enjoy tulips blooming in your own garden and it’s been a colorful show.

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There, don’t you feel so much better imagining the feeling of standing in a field of tulips surrounded by a riot of color and scent? Happy Friday!

Update

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When I saw Debbie’s photo today, I just had to share the last two books I bought for my boys while traveling – also in Italy. They were a find in a little Italian bookstore which only had about one shelf of English books. Unfortunately these books are not available on Amazon.com, but if you’re in Italy it’s definitely worthwhile to check a bookstore or two for copies. The illustrations are hilarious and though the material is obviously weighty, my kids were just enthralled.

Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more fun Friday travel photos.

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Cheer for Earth Day with WEEE-Man

weee-man

This is WEEE-Man. WEEE stands for Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment, waste which usually ends up in landfill but from which this seven-foot tall piece of artwork was constructed. His teeth are computer mice, his eyes the doors of front-loader washers. Within the structure there are kitchen appliances such as toasters and microwave ovens; large appliances like washers and tumble dryers; plenty of computer-related equipment and even an electric lawn-mower.

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The WEEE-Man currently lives at the Eden Project in Cornwall, UK. When we visited last month, I have to say I was totally fascinated by this installation. The second picture above gives a better idea of the WEEE-Man’s size and, when you’ve taken that in, here’s the thought I’d like to leave you with this Earth Day: the amount of material used to construct this structure is equivalent to the amount that an average individual will throw away during his or her lifetime. Shocking, eh?

Related Posts:
Proposed Cornwall Trip Itinerary
Farm Shops In Cornwall

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The Long Way to Murano

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Murano

I’m using a photo from Flickr for Photo Friday today, much as I would love to be sharing the photos I took while we were in Venice :( When I wrote about navigating Venice by Vaporetto, I ended by alluding to our crapo-vapo day when I goofed so gloriously that my kids will probably bring it up in their wedding speeches.

It was a hot day, like a really, really hot day. We should have just found a shaded piazza and spent the day lounging, reading and eating gelato by the bucketful, but that would be contrary to my native “I exist, therefore I must be moving” style of traveling – and living, if the truth be told. Instead, I thought we should go out to Murano to see how glass-blowing is done Venetian-style. To see the glass, of course, but also to take advantage of the fact that since Murano is an island in the lagoon we’d have to take a boat out there and – so my twisted logic went – the breeze on the boat would be cooling.

Also, taking my kids to a glass furnace is is less crazy than it might sound since thanks to Dale Chiluly, glass-blowing features heavily in the Pacific Northwest art scene and my boys have seen all parts of the process through visits to the Tacoma Museum of Glass . What’s not to like? A huge furnace, monster steel rods, glowing blobs of molten glass – all things which any child would find fascinating.

So far so good. And then it wasn’t. You see, as Jamie from TravelSavvyMom pointed out in her comment on my vaporetto post, vaporetto stops are confusing. The main reason is, unlike buses or trains or other, more common forms of public transportation, vaporettos going opposite directions (e.g. #41 E and #41 W) stop at the same vaporetto stop. The bigger stops have two gangways – one each for passengers going in each direction. The smaller stops, on the other hand, have only one gangway and while the number on the boat is large and easy to read, the direction is not. So you’ve guessed it. Yes, on this steamingly hot day, I took my poor husband and children onto a vaporetto going the wrong direction on a circular route. Which wouldn’t have been so bad, except that this particular route circumnavigated the entire island (of Venice). To add insult to injury, vaporettos don’t have air-conditioning or much cross-flow of air within the passenger area. Man, was it hot!

Within one or two stops, the WanderDad and I figured out the mistake, but we opted to stay on the boat thinking that our children – who, at that point were sitting underneath a window and quietly reading their books – might not even notice. That was while we were passing along the quieter, more industrial side of Venice. Once we hit the busier parts of the city, things went downhill fast. People piled onto that boat like it was the last lifeboat on the Titanic and consequently, my children articulated their discomfort at the tops of their voices – there are times when I dream of a little British Isles reserve from them, but it’s been noticeably lacking so far so I’m not holding my breath. At home, I refer to CAM as my ‘pet troglodyte’ because he genuinely prefers to be in our dark, cool basement on a hot sunny day. He has no tolerance for heat, poor guy. He berated me from about San Marco all the way back to the stop where we had originally caught the vaporetto and then some. I kept passing the bottle of water and hoping for an end to come soon.

But just to show the resiliance of children: within moments of stepping off the boat onto the island of Murano, (penitential monstrous gelatos in hand) we came across a small, family-friendly glass shop. The display items were glued to the shelves – how cool is that? The ‘horrendous crossing’ was immediately pushed out of the boys’ minds as they ooh-ed and ahh-ed over cute and colorful glass. I was forgiven, but, as I said, I don’t think this mistake will ever be forgotten.

Side Note: If you’ve been reading this blog for a while now, you’ll have noticed that my kids having a good book to read has helped a lot on many of our travels. To share the titles which they’ve enjoyed, I’ve added an Amazon widget to this page. Check out the books. Seriously, I will only show books which are reader-approved by CAM and BigB

Related Links
Navigating Venice By Vaporetto
Our First Wander In Venice

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Our First Wander In Venice

venice-map

The joys of depending on the Italian train system. We had planned to have a lazy Monday morning in Lucca relaxing after a busy (wedding-filled) weekend, possibly catching an afternoon train towards Venice. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the train station on Sunday afternoon to purchase tickets, we were told that there would be a one-day, province-wide train strike the following day and that if we wanted to get to Venice on Monday, we’d have to catch the 6:30am train. The following morning, for two kids who were still recovering from jet-lag, my boys were troupers as we woke them early and bundled them into a taxi to the train station.

Hence, we arrived in Venice late Monday afternoon, tired and just a little cranky. We found our apartment off Campo S. Angelo with little trouble, dumped our bags and headed out for our first wander around the city with no agenda other than to stretch our legs after a day on trains and to find something to eat. Small and quiet, S. Angelo is in the San Marco sestiere but slightly away from the main “tourist trail” which runs from Piazza San Marco to the Rialto bridge. We followed our noses rather than a map, generally heading south-west towards the famous piazza to try to get a first glimpse of the Basilica di San Marco in the pre-dinner quiet. Our walk led us through Campo San Stefano past some restaurants which were just arranging their outdoor seating. It’s funny to think that these squares are called campos because they were once fields – in a city which is now battling to stay above water.

After walking even for a short time through the narrow streets and bridges, when you first come upon Piazza San Marco you immediately feel humbled by the size and grandeur. Our luck was in: the square was practically empty, the restaurants not quite ready to start serving dinner, the pianos quiet and there were only pigeons crowding around the entrances to the (now-closed) Cathedral and Palazzo Di Doge. “Mom, look, it’s the golden lion” BigB called excitedly. With the Piazza practically to ourselves, we we were able to take plenty of posed photos of the boys with the famous cathedral in the background. Unfortunately, just a couple of days later, our camera was stolen, so I have no photos to share :(

For a visitor, Venice is a truly confusing city in which to orient oneself with mostly small cobbled streets, an unintelligible addressing system and, of course, canals. I had no idea that this was the case when we had set out earlier, The Rough Guide to Venice confidently in hand, sure that we’d easily find one of the recommended restaurants. Hah! After a fruitless attempt to find one or two of the suggested establishments, I conceded to the urgency of the “Mom, I’m hungry” cries and instead we returned to Campo San Stefano where we ate a decent, reasonably-priced meal at Ristorante San Stefano. As we relaxed over coffee after our meal, I studied the map in our guidebook, trying to commit the general layout of the city to memory. The boys were exploring the piazza – which is just the right size for enabling some independence, but not so large that they could disappear out of view. Although, when they came barreling back to us at top speed having ‘discovered’ a gelateria at the other end of the square, there was no way we could miss them.The Gelateria Paolin is one of the city’s oldest gelateria and is world-famous for it’s pistachio gelato. An excellent way to end to a busy day.

Related posts:
Navigating Venice By Vaporetto

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Navigating Venice by Vaporetto

Note from Wandermom: This past weekend I realized that I hadn’t written much about our time in Venice last June. Over the next week I’ll be writing about this – I hope you enjoy!

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If you click on this image, a full-color PDF of the route map will be displayed

Ah Venice! The city of canals and gondolas. When we visited, I do think BigB was sure that we’d only travel by gondola while we were there. Unfortunately, gondolas are not really practical for a family of four – with backpacks – and the directions to our accommodation recommended taking a vaporetto to S’Angelo. But, just like any traveler first arriving in a new city, we weren’t quite sure how to navigate (excuse the pun) this novel form of public transportation. So we sat on the steps of the Venezia Santa Lucia train station enjoying our first gelato of the day watching the vaporettos puttering into their assigned docks, disgorging of passengers and loading up again. The kids were fascinated.


Single-journey vaporetto tickets are EU2 each. You can also buy tickets in half-day increments up to 72 hours or a 7-day pass. If you’re staying for longer than three days, you plan to use public transit and visit the many museums for which Venice is famous, a VENICE Card – which includes discounted admission to museums (and public restrooms!) is also available. If you arrive by train, there’s a ticket booth for ACTV tickets at the train station. There are children’s rates for the VENICE card but not for the multi-hour or multi-day ACTV tickets. You can buy tickets online at veniceconnected.com.

Our journey that day was painless and we hopped on and off the vapos like natives over the next few days. Until, perhaps a little too comfortable with our prowess as vapo-riders, our trip to Murano became, in BigB’s words “Mom’s biggest mistake of the whole trip”. You’ll have to come back to find out what happened :)

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Paddington Bear and Harry Potter Make The Day

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We caught the 8:30am train from Truro to London Paddington. It seemed just wrong to pass through the station a second time without stopping for a photo of BigB, his bear and the statue of the eponymous bear.

But, we weren’t all done with trains. We needed to get to St. Pancras for our (thankfully short) train journey to Woburn, which presented us with another photo opportunity – since St. Pancras and King’s Cross stations are literally across the road from each other.

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Wondering why we’d want to visit three train stations in one day? Because of Harry Potter of course! King’s Cross being, as all true fans of the boy-wizard know, the station where Harry and his school-friends disappeared through the station wall at the magical Platform 9 3/4 to catch the train to Hogwarts.

King’s Cross is a busy station and you do need to persevere through the busier platforms at the front of the station to find Platform 9 3/4. There’s also construction work happening at the station so Platform 9 3/4 isn’t currently located between Platforms 9 and 10 at all – but there are plenty of signs to the re-located site and the station staff are also well used to people wondering around, cameras in hand, in this area.

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Two trains, three train stations, one very happy kid.

Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more Photo Friday fun!

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