Category Archives: Europe

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Skip The Line Eiffel Tower Tour Paris

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When I looked up the details on the Skip The Line Eiffel Tower Tour on GetYourGuide.com I was skeptical about the duration shown. Three hours, really? How can it take that long to walk the 4.5kms from the Church of the Madeleine to the Eiffel Tower? How am I going to keep my kids engaged on a three-hour walk? As it turned out, the three hours flew by in a whirl of ambling, chatting, French history and fun.

The map above is the route we took. We stood at the church of the Madeleine and shivered on a brisk November day. Alex, our young Kiwi guide did a short round of introductions and then directed us to look straight down the broad street to the imposing building across the river. The Assemblee Nationale. Hey, look at that, it looks just like the church. That was a deft distraction from the cold and almost an abrupt: “Right, we’re going to spend the next few hours talking about French architecture, French culture and French history – but it doesn’t have to be painful. Let’s go have fun.” With that our little group of 12 was off.

And so it went. At the Place de la Concorde you could see that Alex particularly enjoyed regaling macabre and gruesome details about the “Place de la Revolution”. (My kids lapped it up in true teenage boy fashion). Without noticing we’d had a mini crash course in La Revolution we crossed the street and within minutes we were deep into whether or not Lance Armstrong should repay the Hotel Crillon for his eight complimentary stays there (a little-known benefit of winning the Tour de France) or not. Next up was a stop that you can only do while on a walking tour: a pause on the pedestrian crossing looking down the Champs Elysee. Just for good measure (while we waited for the lights to change again) Alex directed our group to observe even more historical and architectural French flair i.e. the symmetry of the view from the Jardin des Tuileries towards the Arc de Triomphe. We crossed the river and had our first photo shot with the famous Tour in the background. My kids were actually excited, who’d have thought?

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(And yes, my older son is so proud that he towers over me he thought a shot of him towering with the Tower in the background would be appropriate. Sigh.)
Who walked along the river for another French history lesson stop at Les Invalides and then crossed back across the Seine. From my husband: “Careful BigB, you’d better not fall into the river – you’d be in-seine. Haha.” Witty Murphys.

In a lull in our tour guide’s banter and a little time while the rest of the group quietly enjoyed the walk we got the dreaded “I’m bored” from CAM and BigB. “Let’s do cities, you go first – start with A”. By the time Alex gathered the group at the next stop BigB had charmed the other people in our group into helping him remember the names of cities and almost everyone else was listening in on our game.

We stopped at the Flame of Liberty, the unofficial memorial for Princess Diana, found yet another statue of Simon Bolivar on his horse and continued on towards the Museum of Modern Art. Of course we talked about the May 2010 heist of paintings by Picasso and Matisse. The story, a comedy of errors, with CCTV cameras pointing the wrong way, a fancy new alarm installed but not turned on and sleeping security guards sounds like a movie script. And the exterior cameras still appear to be pointing in the wrong direction. CAM was fascinated.

The last stretch of our walk took us down Avenue de New York to the Jardins du Trocadero for an Eiffel Tower picture-taking fest followed by a mini-lecture on everything you ever wanted to know about the history and construction of the Eiffel Tower. It was just as well we were done with our letters game (thanks to even Alex for pitching in on the awkward letters X, V and Y) so we could all focus on learning about Gustaf Eiffel, the 1889 World’s Fair and the other nitty gritty details. My geek boys loved that the tower escaped demolition because wireless antennas were installed during WWI.

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Alex escorted our group to the base of the tower and said his goodbyes. A tour guide who is so enthusiastic in his subject matter, who easily engages with each of the members of our tour group and has fun with kids is a rare thing. We genuinely enjoyed our three-hour walk while learning more than we thought we’d ever know about Paris and France. The best part of the tour though, was the skip-the-line part at the tower. By the time we got there it was dark and cold and the line was still quite long. We were waved on to the express elevator for a quick ride to the first platform where we had a short wait before riding all the way to the top. What a view.

You can book the Skip The Line Eiffel Tour on the GetYourGuide website. I highly recommend it – we had a blast.

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Before our trip to Paris GetYourGuide, a Swiss booking website for tours and activities had contacted me and invited me to take one of their tours in exchange for writing a review of the tour. GetYouGuide provided us with complimentary tickets to the Skip The Line Eiffel Tower tour for all four of us but did not stipulate that I express any particular point of view in my review.

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Planning a trip to Paris with teenagers

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Paris with teenagers. Sigh. I can hear you all sighing at the idea of Paris in a very “we’ll always have Paris” way. Me? I’m wondering what to do with two digitally-obsessed teens for a week in Paris. This is a new kind of family travel planning, but I’m always up for a challenge so here’s what we’re considering (with a little input from said teens).

1. The Eiffel Tower
This year we kicked around ideas for where to go and what to do for Thanksgiving with our boys and BigB announced “I’d love to go to Paris, I’ve never been*”. Ahem, honey, yes you have – here’s a photo of you and me on the Eiffel tower.

Given that he was only two at the time, we forgave his memory lapse and agreed that Paris seemed a fine place to go for a few days in November. Our first tourist stop will be the famous tower to jog his memory.

2. Pantheon
Not for the architecture. Not for the famous people buried there. No. Me and my geeks-in-training are going to see Foucault’s Pendulum.

3. Paris Catacombs
Yes, we’re going underground, no, not to go see pretty pictures at the Louvre, we’re going to look at the bones of six million dead Parisians. In a word macabre but I bet my kids will be more interested in spotting odd occipital structures than they would be admiring the lines of Mona Lisa’s famous face.

4. The Sewer Museum
You can’t go to Paris without visiting at least one museum and this is the one my kids chose. It’ll be different. I reserve the right to pass on this one and go spend some mom-time at the Musee D’Orsay (which, very conveniently, is just above).

5. Graves
Jim Morrison. Edith Piaf. Oscar Wilde. Samuel Beckett. There’s a lot of famous people buried in Paris. I figure we’ll indulge the teen cool factor with a pilgrimage to Jim Morrison’s bones and then trade that goodwill for a trip to Versailles.

*He actually also said ” and we could go see the places mentioned in The Sorceress” but since he read that when he was a very uncool 10, I’m only mentioning it here in passing.

Leave a note and let me know if there’s any other teen-friendly Paris sights or activities you think we shouldn’t miss. (But mention Disneyland Paris and I’ll un-friend you I swear).

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The Best of Bodrum

Bodrum Turkey Beach Restaurant Castle

Beach Restaurant with a View of the Castle of St Peter, Bodrum

Best of Bodrum

The best holidays are the ones that you remember forever, and there’s something about the city of Bodrum that makes it hard to forget. Perhaps it’s the food, or the potent sense of history that envelopes the town, or maybe it’s the bustling markets and beautiful beaches. If you’re searching for sun somewhere off the beaten track to take your family, then Bodrum is the perfect destination.

Bodrum Turkey Torba Beach

Torba Beach – Bodrum

Best of Bodrum – Beaches

Bodrum is renowned for its glorious mixture of beaches. There’s plenty for sun-worshippers and water sport enthusiasts alike, ranging from quiet coves to busy swathes of tourist-friendly sea shore.
For somewhere quiet, go to Torba or Turkbuku, where you’ll find stretches of sand with barely a footprint for miles. Otherwise, in areas like Bitez and Gumbet, the beaches are lined with restaurants and bars, so you can enjoy a full day without leaving the sea-front.

Monarch Airlines – Bodrum Market

Best of Bodrum – Shopping

For an authentic Eastern experience, a trip to Bodrum’s bustling market is a must. Thrumming with activity, the town’s market place is uniquely charming. Stalls, weighed down with the likes of olives, spices, jewellery, and carpets, hide many a bargain waiting to be bartered for.

Best of Bodrum – Food

If you’re a family of foodies, Bodrum is guaranteed to delight and excite you. When it comes to cookery, the emphasis here is on freshness and depth of flavour, and the town is home to a wealth of brilliant restaurants serving affordable meals.

When dining out, make sure you try the ‘patican salatasi’ (pureed aubergine) as well as light, fluffy lavash bread. Also, in a town where you can hear the waves of the Aegean lapping the sand as you eat, the fish has to be tasted to be believed. Popular regional choices include tuna and bass, but whichever fish you choose, it’ll be freshly caught.

There are plenty of fantastic restaurants to choose from, but don’t miss Secret Garden, a tucked-away little eatery facing the marina where you can dine on incredible Turkish-European fusion cooking in a garden setting. For an authentic experience, check out the Alara Tavern in Torba knows for its simple, local vibe and unbeatable fresh fish.

This wonderful region of Turkey is a great destination for all the family, and it’s also refreshingly affordable. Visit http://www.monarch.co.uk/turkey/aegean-coast-bodrum/flights for great deals on cheap flights to Bodrum with Monarch Airlines.

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Olympics London 2012 Torch in Kent

Visit London 2012: Tips For Planning A Visit

Visit London 2012 Torch in Kent

Check out this guest post for tips on planning a visit to London in 2012 – during or even after the 2012 Summer Olympics. This is a Guest Post is by British Airways who fly directly from Seattle to London (I know, I’ve taken that particular flight, with my kids, many, many times in the 16 years that I’ve been living in Seattle).

Visit London 2012

If you’re thinking about making your way across the pond with your family this summer but are unsure of where to start, we have some helpful, family-friendly tips on how to navigate around the city that we know and love.

Contrary to popular belief, it’s not too late to book reasonable flights or hotel stays for London – especially with the dollar becoming increasingly stronger (₤.64 GBP ~ $1 USD). Here are some helpful links to help get the ball rolling:

Where to Stay:
There’s plenty of great information on Accommodation on VisitLondon.com.
Take advantage of the British Airways “London for Free” promotion – two nights free hotel stay with the purchase of round-trip airfare between the US and UK. The offer is valid through Thursday midnight (EST), Jul. 25, 2012, with the free hotel stay valid for travel from Jul. 27, 2012, through Sep. 30, 2012.

Getting Around:
Fast track into the city on the Heathrow Express train or if you have more time consider the Tube, aka London Underground. You should plan your travel route around the city in advance, look up fares, and buy an Oyster card (fare swipe card).
Rates for Students and Children: Read up on Tube ticket deals that you and your children can benefit from.
It’s worth noting that there is a Games Travelcard, which provides spectators free travel within zones 1–9 on the London public transport network throughout the day of the event.

There are plenty of other great family-friendly sights to check out if you visit London 2012:

  • Ride the London Eye, the world’s largest ferris wheel. It offers astonishing city views and family photo opportunities!
  • Tour Buckingham Palace and celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.
  • Cruise along the River Thames to observe the city’s beauty from a relaxing setting.
  • Have a family picnic at Hyde Park and visit the peaceful Princess Diana Memorial Fountain.
  • London has many city farms that are free to visit. Vauxhall City Farm offers pony care classes and donkey rides, while MudChute Park and Farm is the largest urban farm in London sitting on 34 acres. Many of the farms also host children’s playgrounds and fresh farm shops.

    If you’re lucky enough to get tickets for The Games then make time to visit Park Live: British Airways will also be hosting a live public viewing of the Games in the Olympic Park, posting giant two-sided screens for up to 10,000 viewers. Give your family a front-and-center view of the sporting action from the comfort of a serenely grassy park.

    With so much buzzing in London this summer, it’s helpful to get prepared to ensure your family has a smooth, fun trip filled with heaps of good memories.

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    Street Scenes from Antakya Turkey

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    It seems that every morning this week I’ve woken to NPR reporting on the current dreadful situation in Syria. Each report has ended with the reporter signing off, “from Antakya, Turkey” and each time I’ve heard that I’ve been able to picture this pretty Turkish city in my mind since we spent three wonderful days there just a year ago. I thought that if I shared my photos of Antakya then you too would be able to picture what Deborah Amos is seeing as she writes her reports about Syria.

    antakya-turkey-street-view-1

    This street is in the very center of Antakya. It is a pedestrian street lined with restaurants, coffee shops and stores. I wonder if the NPR reporter was sitting right here when she filed this sad story about the harsh human cost of the fighting in Syria.

    antakya-turkey-street-view-3

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    A Windy Stop in Clifden Connemara Ireland

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    On a wet and windy April afternoon we stopped in Clifden, Co. Galway for lunch. It was so wet it was foggy. CAM joked that “the fog wasn’t really fog, it was because in Ireland the rain clouds are so heavy they’re almost on the ground”.
    But getting a little wet in the rain has never deterred us from taking a walk especially when a good leg-stretch will blow out mental cobwebs gathered from sitting in the car all the way from Dublin. We took a walk down towards the harbor, on a path that was signposted “Sli na Slainte” – that’s Gaelic for “healthy walk”.

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    At the bottom of the hill, I got this great shot looking back across the bay at the town.

    ireland-with-children-connemara-clifden-windy-walk

    The wind had picked up even more as we made our way back to our car. My kids stood, feet planted wide apart, trying to see if the wind could blow them down or at least blow off a jacket.

    Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more travel-themed Friday photo fun.

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    Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

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    Ireland with Children: Reasons to Visit Ireland in 2012

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    I’m Irish so naturally Ireland is always going to be near the top of my list of places to recommend for family travel but right now is a particularly good time to visit and here’s why…

    Legacies of the Celtic Tiger Boom
    Dublin Airport’s new Terminal 2 opened in November 2010. It is, as BigB said “Very fancy, futuristic even.” And it is. All shining glass and steel with wide open spaces and lots of great light its a tremendous improvement to the airport. For me, having a smooth and fairly pleasant experience just getting in and out of the country help set a good tone for our visit.

    Infrastructure in Ireland has improved vastly over the past fifteen years. It’s easier to get from the airport out into the country and now there are motorways linking Dublin with other major cities (Belfast, Cork and Galway).

    Motorway tolls are automatic. You may think this is trivial bu if you’ve ever had to sit in the waiting line for the toll plaza on the M50 (Dublin’s ring road) with an infant screaming in the back of your car you’d understand why, to me, this is a huge improvement.

    There are new family-friendly tourist attractions such as the Sea Life Aquarium in Bray and Dublin’s Children’s Museum. Around the country historic sites such as the passage graves at Newgrange have improved visitor facilities with cafes and informative displays so that you can get more out of your visit.

    ireland-with-children-avoca-mills-wicklow

    Indirect Legacies
    The wealth years have left Ireland with a many great new hotels and resorts and the whole country looks as if it’s been spruced up. Freshly painted and newly whitewashed main streets in pretty villages up and down the country look even more charming.

    Side-Effects of the Crash
    On our recents visits to Ireland my husband has commented on how surprising it is that the country doesn’t appear more dreary – given the extreme economic deceleration that’s happened. That said, on our last visit (April 2012) we did notice that restaurant food prices appear to be falling which is a nice bonus for visitors: a hearty and filling cooked breakfast for 5 euros anyone?

    While driving in Ireland we heard a radio interview with the head of IDA Ireland. This development authority is busy at work trying to bring international investors back to the Emerald Isle. Indeed, during the interview, he says that they have had some “encouraging discussions” driven by falling local labor costs and an educated, English-speaking workforce.

    This is another reason why now is an excellent time to visit Ireland. If the IDA is successful, increased employment will create upward pressure on prices. If they are not successful, sadly, there won’t be enough money available for maintenance of those new roads, buildings and tourist facilities.

    Right now is a sweet spot for any tourist who’s ever had a hankering to see if that fabled Irish Cead Mile Failte (a hundred thousand welcomes) is real or not.

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    Information on traveling to Ireland with kids.

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    Cows at Schiphol Airport

    Amsterdam with kids Amsterdam with children Schiphol Airport

    CAM, with some funky “street” art – in this case a Euro cow – at Schiphol Airport.
    Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more travel-themed Friday photo fun.
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    Things Your Kids Will Only Say in Amsterdam

    Amsterdam is one of my favorite European cites for it’s unique layout with streets crisscrossing canals and the eponymous Amstel river. As one of the transit hub cities between Seattle and Europe we’ve visited Amsterdam with kids frequently in short 1-2 day stops on our way to or from visiting family in the British Isles.
    Schiphol, Amsterdam’s international airport, is one of the main reasons why I enjoy such brief visits to Amsterdam with my children. The airport is situated a brief 20-minute train ride from the city center. This means that even if you are only on the ground in the Netherlands for 12 hours – as we just were – you can still easily make the most of your time in Amsterdam.
    The airport train station is just outside the arrivals hall. Hop on the train and whether your hotel is right in Amsterdam center or in one of the outer suburbs, the efficient Dutch public transit system makes it easy to get where you need to go with tram and bus connections from train stations.

    It was 8:30pm by the time we checked into our hotel (the Wyndham Apollo). We dumped our bags and headed out in search of dinner.
    A 30-minute walk along the canals brought us to the Rijksmuseum and then on to the Leidseplein area where we found the Arabic Lounge. Looking inviting with a reasonably priced menu we decided we’d walked far enough and maneuvered our way up the narrow, curved stairs into the restaurant. As my boys inhaled the tagine-style Moroccan stews and couscous we talked about our walk.
    “Shall we walk on the other side of the canal on the way back?”, Murph asked innocently knowing full well that to do so would mean walking in front of girls posing in windows  since our walk took us along the side of Amsterdam’s famous red light district.

    Amsterdam with kids Amsterdam with Children Red Light District

    “No! You can take a photo if you want”, I retorted.
    “Mom! You can’t take pictures” BigB (who’s 11) chimed in.
    Not to be left out of the discussion CAM added: “Sex is their business Mom”.
    “Yeah, Mom, that would be like taking a video camera into a movie theater” added BigB.
    Wow. Chastised, I had to suppress a grin. This was definitely a conversation for the family travel memories book.

    On our way back to the hotel we retraced our steps from earlier in the evening.
    A young man passed us walking quickly leaving a telltale waft in his wake.
    “Ah, weed”, says Murph.
    Our boys know that we support the Dutch drug regulation model, although I will admit that it’s easy for us to support since we don’t live there.
    BigB took hold of my hand and snuggled in close.
    “When I come back to Amsterdam when I’m older Mom…”
    I patted his head, thinking happy thoughts of his future independent travels…
    “I promise I’ll bring my own super-clean, sanitized bong.”
    He grinned up at me.
    My husband laughed out loud.
    I stared at my giggling child in horror.
    “I was only kidding Mom. I swear.”

    Right. There really are some things your child will only say in Amsterdam.

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    Albufeira Adventure Park

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    While in Portugal with our kids this past summer we had plenty of sun days and pool days and even a couple of beach days but we got to the point where we were all done with lazing in the sun. So what did we do instead? We went zip-lining at the very fun Algarve Adventure Park in Albufeira. This turned out to be an excellent choice for our group of kids ranging in age from five to 15.

    portugal-with-kids-adventure-park
    After the friendly and helpful French instructors kitted us out with harnesses and gave us necessary safety instructions we were off – with the littlest leading the way.

    portugal-with-kids-climbing-monkey
    My niece, C, at 5 and diminutive, was fearless on the ropes. All the trails at the park are color-coded by height and ability which was helpful for steering the younger kids to lines they could safely manage alone.

    portugal-with-kids-helping-hand
    Or sometimes with a helping hand from their older cousin.

    Head on over to DeliciousBaby for more travel-themed Friday photo fun.
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