Author Archives: wandermom

About wandermom

". . .life is short and the world is wide" - Simon Raven I'm not sure I've ever consciously planned a trip based on this sentiment, but it definitely influences my subconscious! I've been traveling as frequently and widely as possible since I finished school. And I love it. I love the research, the planning, the fervent packing and the curiosity of exploring somewhere I've never been before. My husband & I are both Irish - as in born-in-Ireland. But we live in Seattle. We have two boys: wild, boisterous, regular boys. So, since becoming a Mom, I've been a WanderMom. Given our slightly-unusual family situation, routine "visits-to-Grandma" are international trips requiring passports, 10hr-flights and (oh joy!) airport transfers. I have rants, raves and opinions about how, where & why to travel with kids (start them as young as you can, I say!). I hope to learn even more by researching topics which other wandermoms may be interested in reading about on this blog. Passports, pacifiers, diapers and gameboys at the ready - off we go! Contact Info: Email Michelle: michelle (at) murphnduff (dot) org

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Favorite Passports with Purpose Prizes


As you know, I’m a co-founder of Passports with Purpose, the annual travelblogger’s fundraiser. That means that every year I get to see all the great prizes as they come in and every year there are some that catch my eye and make me think, “Oh! I’d love to win that one!”. Unfortunately as an organizer I can’t win – but I can dream :) So here are my five favorites from the awesome list of 2012 prizes.

The thing about living in a city is that you rarely get to experience the fancy hotels in the city. If I won Mary Jo’s 2 Nights at the Pan Pacific including breakfast I could check out the Pan Pacific (which I expect to be sumptuous and maybe even have a mini-break with my husband – after all, if we’re still in Seattle it’ll be safe enough to leave our teen boys home alone, right?

Trekaroo have partnered with the Big Sky Chamber of Commerce and the Lone Mountain Ranch to offer a week at a dude ranch in Montana for a family for four. With expat parents and family spread worldwide my kids regularly complain that they don’t get to see enough of America. A week at a dude ranch might start to redress that imbalance.

I love Mexico. I do really. So much so that if I could enter to win prizes, I’d split my entries between the Luxury Penthouse apartment in Punta de Mito offered by CiaoBambino and the five night stay at a the Banyan Tree Mayakoba resort in Riviera Maya. Surely if I entered both of these I’d double my chances of winning at least one?

Fellow Seattle blogger Peter Carey is offering a 12 Day All-Expense Paid Photo Trek in Nepal. If I won this one, I’d give it to my husband. It takes a lot of time to pull Passports with Purpose together. That’s time I’m not spending with my husband and kids. So long as I fulfill my provider-of-food-and-clean-laundry duties, my kids appear to be fine with me being barely there sometimes. My husband unfortunately has to pick up the pieces when I get stressed out and crabby. So this is a virtual gift to you Murph, for being a great Home Team.

You can check out these and all the other prizes on the DONATE page.

The Passports with Purpose designated charity for 2012 is Water.org and the goal is to raise $100,000 to build five wells in rural Haiti.

Passports with Purpose 2012 sponsors are: Expedia, Tripit, TBEX, HomeAway, Travellerspoint, HostelBookers and Go with Oh.

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Support Passports with Purpose 2012 and Win a 26-day Silk Road Tour

Silk Road Tour


26 Days in Central Asia. Travel from Bejing to Xian to Khiva. Enjoy all the sights and sounds that I’ve described in my recent posts about Central Asia – without the stress of arranging every detail yourself. This is modern adventure travel. The experience of traveling along this fabled route through countries that are just opening up to tourism is like nothing you can imagine. I am indebted to Intrepid Travel, the award-winning adventure travel leader, for donating this trip in support of Passports with Purpose 2012.

The designated beneficiary for Passports with Purpose 2012 is Water.org. Our goal is to raise $100,000 which will be used to build five wells in Haiti. Each well will serve about 350 people. Donate even $10 to Passports with Purpose 2012 and help over 1,000 people get access to clean water.

Silk Road Tour: History

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Marco Polo first traveled from Italy to China overland in 1271. The journey took three and a half years. 16-year-old Marco did not return to Venice until 24 years later when Kublai Khan released him from court service. The Polos were not the first to explore the network of trade routes we describe as the Silk Road but it was Marco Polo’s book about their travels which caused their journey to be the first that was widely known and also to inspire many other adventurers in the Age of Discovery. Although the overland Silk Road fell out of common use once marine trading routes were opened in the 16th century, world attention returned to these magnificent palaces, steep mountain passes and spacious fertile valleys during the Great Game of the 19th century. To visit this area now, when indigenous culture is still vibrant and historic sites largely empty of tourists is to truly feel like you are touching history.

Sunday Market in Kashgar China

Silk Road Tour: The Tour Details

Intrepid Travel has designed this tour so that you can be immersed in the sights, sounds and history of Central Asia. Over the course of the 26 days you will stay in local guesthouses, a home-stay, on an overnight sleeper train, in a mountain yurt – and of course, some hotels. You will travel by bus, metro, minibus, minivan, train, plane, and taxi. You will travel like a local and be escorted by locals – which is what makes this an in-depth immersion into Chinese, Uzbek and Kyrgyz history and culture. Your tour group will be made up of up to 12 like-minded travelers.

The full itinerary for this tour is: Bejing – Xian – Turpan – Kashgar – Tash Rabat – Song-Kol Lake – Bishkek – Chong Kemin – Cholpan-Ata – Tampa – Tashkent – Samarkand – Shakhrisabz – Bukhara – Tashkent

You can read the full details on the Intrepid Travel 26 Days in Central Asia description.

A Mountain Yurt in Kyrgyzstan

Silk Road Tour: About Intrepid Travel

I traveled through this area independently, so I asked my friend Pam what her experience of a similar adventure tour with Intrepid Travel was like. Here’s what she had to say:
Intrepid works hard to make sure that their travelers really connect on a local level. This is rare with group travel. All the local guides we spent time were not only great guides, but friendly people who were happy to share about their own lives. And maybe I was lucky, but our Intrepid leaders felt more like part of the group than hired leaders. Even though I had to pitch an awkward tent, wash dishes, and do lots of other chores,I loved the trip I did with Intrepid — I recommend them, wholeheartedly.

Historic Mosque Bukhara Uzbekistan

Silk Road Tour: How to Enter

Passports with Purpose 2012 operates as an online free drawing. This incredible prize (worth over $4,000) will be listed on the donation page. For each $10 donation that you make, you get a chance to enter a free drawing for this or any of the other prizes listed. It’s that simple. Go, check out, the prizes, donate $10, $20, $50 or $100 and on December 18th 2012 we’ll announce the winner of each prize.

The designated beneficiary for Passports with Purpose 2012 is Water.org. Our goal is to raise $100,000 to build five wells in Haiti. Each well will serve about 350 people. Support Passports with Purpose 2012 and over 1,000 people will get access to clean water.

DONATE to win this incredible Passports with Purpose 2012 prize.

Passports with Purpose 2012 sponsors are: Expedia, Tripit, TBEX, HomeAway, Travellerspoint, HostelBookers and Go with Oh.

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Silk Road Tour: Full Prize Details aka The Legalese
1. Entry into this promotion is deemed acceptance of these conditions of entry.
2. Prize can only be redeemed by contacting Eliza Anderson at Intrepid Trave Travel. The booking will be made by contacting marketing@intrepidtravel.com. The prize holder must be able to forward a copy of the winner notification. Intrepid Travel will not contact the winner/or Travel Agent to arrange travel; this is the winner’s responsibility.
3. Prizes are not exchangeable [to another trip], are not transferrable [to another traveller] and cannot be redeemed for an equivalent cash value.
4. A minimum number of paying travellers is required before a trip can be confirmed; this is regardless of the normal trip minimum number. Travel is subject to booking availability.
5. Trip kitty, international airfares, travel insurance, spending money, domestic airfares, meals, travel taxes, passports, visas, transport to and from departure point and all other ancillary costs, as well as obtaining any of these, are not included in the prize and are the responsibility of the winner.
6. The trip must be booked and taken by 31 December 2013 otherwise it will be deemed to be forfeited by the winner. Once booked, any changes made to the booking may incur a cancellation fee or amendment fee, at the cost of the winner. Please refer to Intrepid’s Booking Conditions at www.intrepidtravel.com – standard booking conditions apply.
7. All components of the prize/trip must be taken together or otherwise are deemed to be forfeited.
8. Prize/trip cannot be used in conjunction with any other Intrepid or third party discounts or special offers
9. In the event of war, terrorism, state of emergency, disaster or any other circumstance beyond the control of the Promoter, the Promoter reserves the right to either provide an alternative travel destination to the same value as the original prize or, subject to any applicable laws or written directions made under applicable legislation, to cancel, terminate, modify or suspend the promotion.
10. The Promoter shall not be liable for any loss or damage whatsoever which is suffered (including but not limited to indirect or consequential loss) or for any personal injury suffered or sustained in connection with the prize except for any liability, which cannot be excluded by law. The Promoter will not be responsible for any incorrect, inaccurate or incomplete information communicated in the course of or in connection with this promotion if the deficiency is occasioned by any cause outside the reasonable control of the Promoter including without limitation technical malfunctions or failures. Tax implications may arise from the receipt or use of a prize. Independent financial advice should be sought. It is a condition of accepting the prize that the winner may be required to sign a legal release in a form determined by the Promoter in its absolute discretion.11. The Promoter is Intrepid Travel Pty Ltd of Level 3, 380 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 Australia. A.B.N. 35 007 172 456.
12. Privacy Policy. All information will remain confidential and will not be sold or disclosed to third parties. Please view Intrepid’s privacy policy at http://www.intrepidtravel.com/sharedcontent/privacy_policy_popup.php
13. The Passports with Purpose online fundraising event is governed by these Rules.

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The Fort in Bukhara Uzbekistan

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The Emir of Bukhara who was responsible for the deaths of Stoddard and Connelly, a pivotal event in the Great Game, lived in this fort in Bukhara, Uzbekistan (also known as the Ark).

When we visited, I was in history-junkie heaven. My kids? Not so much :)

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Books About the Silk Road

Kim
Rudyard Kipling’s book describes an India and a world that no longer exists but the writing entrances like an old-time storyteller. I re-read this book while we were traveling across Central Asia and the story pulled me in as deeply as when I was first introduced to Kim, his Holy Man and their adventures on the Great Trunk Road.
Tournament of Shadows
This is the book I bought a few years ago to really learn about the clash of empires and culture of spies that evolved along the old Silk Road between Britain and Russia as they wrestled for mastery in the region. It is a tome but the cast of quirky characters and the epic scale of the events mean it reads like a modern adventure story.
The Silk Route
I picked this book up for my boys as a way to introduce them to the depth and breath of history of the Silk Road. This is a picture book intended for a younger (early elementary) audience but it is a great primer for a child of any age.
Stories From The Silk Road
I love teaching kids about history and culture via stories and this book is a classic example of that. The book is intended for older elementary aged kids but is a fun read even for teens and adults.
Insight Guides The Silk Road
I picked up a copy of this guidebook at the airport in Shanghai – just because the photos are so gorgeous. I tend to prefer more detailed, text-heavy guidebooks with plenty of listings. This is entirely different not least because it’s got so many stunning photos. We did use it with a Lonely Planet but this is the book I’ll be keeping as my memento of our trip.

The Passports with Purpose 2012 online fundraiser starts in just one week!! I’m extremely excited because this year I have a Silk Road-themed prize donated by Intrepid Travel. Check back on 11/28 for all the details.

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Why Did I Go to Central Asia?

silk-road-map

“Marco Polo! We should follow the Silk Road!”
As my husband grinned, thrilled with his brilliant idea, I blinked, lifted my jaw from the floor and shook my head.
He’d done it again. My knees were weak. A falling-in-love again moment. I’m doomed by the way this man and his madcap, audacious, why-the-hell-not ideas get me every time.

Marco Polo. Silk Road. Afghanistan. Samarkand. Adventure.
Time slowed down and I felt the adrenalin surge into my body. My stomach lurched and flipped at the same time.
“Done. But we’re NOT taking the kids into Afghanistan.”
“Details, details, Duffy. We’ll figure it out.”

We were standing in a bookstore in Seattle leafing through travel books. We’d committed to doing a round-the-world trip with our kids but were still in the planning stages. This Marco Polo idea ended up becoming a central organizing theme for part of our journey and yes, it was adventurous. It is not easy to travel independently from Xian to Turkey but we did. Even with all the fussing about visas and travel passes and illicit street-corner money-changers it will always be decidedly a high point in our year of travel.

uzbekistan-bukhara-fort

I’ve been thinking a lot about Central Asia lately, you’ll find out why when the Passports with Purpose 2012 online fund-raising event starts on November 28th :)
Apart from the travel memories (good and bad), the photos and the certainty that I know I’m not done with this part of the world, what I also found myself mulling over was my initial reaction to Murph’s suggestion. He tripped a fascination I didn’t know I had, but there was definitely something there, where did it come from?

Taking it from the top, how did I get from Marco Polo to Adventure?
1. Marco Polo. Sure everyone knows who Marco Polo was and that he traveled from Italy to China. Easy. Not exciting.
2. Silk Road. Part of the Marco Polo baggage. He went to China and brought back silk.
3. Afghanistan. Hmm. OK. A little geographic fuzziness happening here. I think MP went through Afghanistan but he may not have. It’s in the general area though. Aha! There’s the first source of my adrenalin rush: nothing like pondering taking your children into a war zone to get a fight-or-flight response going.
4. Samarkand. Golden Samarkand. Peaches. Tennyson. Or maybe it was Keats. Did he go to Samarkand or did he just dream about it? Oh! Here, we go, itch scratched…
Rudyard Kipling.
Kim.
That’s it!

I remember being 10 or 12 and watching the classic movie Kim. I was entranced. In this post-Harry Potter era it’s interesting to note that this is one of the few movies from that time with a child as the central character. Maybe that’s why the story fascinated me so much. I found a copy of Rudyard Kipling’s book at the library and read it. I pulled out encyclopedias and tried to find out more about the “Great Game” – and trust me, I had books A (Afghanistan), B (Britain), I (India), E (East India Company) and U (USSR) all open on the floor around me by the time I was done. I’m sure I dreamt about being independent enough to travel alone as Kim did.

So, now that I’ve been to Central Asia what do I think?
I plan to go back. There’s too many points on the map above that I didn’t get to see.
You should go. I mean it. This is one of the few places where you will actually feel like ye olde adventurer when you’re there.
Interested?
Check back on 11/28/2012. I might be able to help.

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Silk Making in Uzbekistan

Part II on our visit to a traditional silk factory in Margilan, Uzbekistan. This time focusing on the process used.

Silk Making: Silk Worms

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It starts with harvested silkworm cocoons…

Silk Making: Extracting the fiber

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Then soaking the cocoons to soften so the fiber can be extracted…

Silk Making: Spinning Thread

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Then stretching the raw fiber and weaving it into a thread using this machine…

Silk Making: A Skein of Silk

silk-making-raw-skein

To produce a skein of raw silk just like this…

Silk Making: Natural Dyes

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Which, in this traditional factory, is dyed using natural dyes made from plants and plant extracts.

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The View from my Window

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I recently moved teams at work. This is the priceless view from my new desk. My team will likely move again, office shuffles being a common feature of any corporate environment, but for now every time I stare out the window, it’s a treat. I don’t think I’m daydreaming any more or less than when I didn’t have a picture window view but I do know that I value the view every time. It’s the strangest thing. The water is calming and peaceful and watching the ducks beats YouTube cat videos by a mile.

Fremont, the neighborhood where I’m located is north of Seattle’s downtown core (where most Seattle hotels are located) but for me, this is the quintessential Seattle ‘hood. There’s quirky street art, funky locally-owned stores and restaurants and my I see my city’s outdoorsy nature passing by my window all day every day.

seattle-fremont-cut-rowers
Rowers from the various crew teams fly by all day long. The odd kayaker or even kayaking tour group paddles by on their way from Lake Union to the Puget Sound, people pass walking, running and cycling on the Burke Gilman trail and I’ve even spotted the odd paddle-boarder. There’s a continual stream of boats of all shapes and sizes and yesterday’s unusual sighting was two tugs escorting a houseboat (how very Sleepless in Seattle!).

seattle-fremont-ducks

But really the headline act on my window stage is the ducks. Definitely beats the cat-videos :)

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Photo credits: kahunapulej, awilliams53

This post was sponsored by Trivago.com.

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Hotel Review: Residence Inn Seattle

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Residence Inn Seattle: A great choice for families.

I’ve driven past the Residence Inn by Lake Union in downtown Seattle a hundred times but it was only when Marriott invited me to come visit the hotel at a mom blogger’s event that I got a chance to explore this property. I’m happy to have done so because now I know that this hotel is a perfect choice for budget-conscious families visiting the Seattle area.

Residence Inn Seattle: Location

The hotel is north of the city’s downtown core but close to the Seattle Center. There’s also a small playground across the street. This area, South Lake Union, is currently undergoing an extensive redevelopment. A number of Seattle’s technology companies have moved in to new office buildings here bringing a ready market for the restaurants, bars and cafes that seem to have popped up like mushrooms where before there was literally nothing. The South Lake Union Trolley runs from SLU to Westlake Center in the heart of downtown from 6am to 11pm most days.

Residence Inn Seattle: Rooms

The Residence Inn is not a stylish luxury hotel but it is bright, open, clean and comfortable. The rooms are spacious. There are studio, one-bedroom (450sq ft) and two-bedroom (770sq ft) suites. All rooms have fully equipped kitchens, sofa beds and wifi.

I stayed in a one-bedroom suite with a view of the lake. My boys are now 12 and 16. They’re big. I am on my way to being the smallest person in our family. This room was one that I felt could easily accommodate all of us – not a mean feat for four adults who like a generous amount of personal space.

Residence Inn Seattle: Family Friendly Features

Three things make the Residence Inn a great choice for vacationing families: the full kitchens, the large rooms and the fact that buffet breakfast is included in the room rate. Food can be a hidden cost for families that can make or break a vacation budget. Eating out is expensive, eating all meals out for a number of days in a row adds up really quickly. I’ve found that having the option of self-catering is a fail-safe way to keep under budget and this hotel makes it easy to do so.

The other nice thing about the Residence Inn Seattle is the guest laundry. The washing machines and dryers are coin-operated. There’s also a small gym and an indoor pool. The pool is about 5m x 10m so not really suitable for laps but a fun place for kids to play in after a busy day’s sightseeing maybe?

Disclaimer: My stay at the Residence Inn was provided by Marriott Hotels however the views expressed above are all my own with no input from the hotel or Marriott.

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Traditional Silk Factory Margilan Uzbekistan

margilan-uzbekistan-silk-factory

These women are silk-weavers at the Yodgorlik Silk Factory in Margilan, Uzbekistan. This “factory” is the largest traditional silk factory in Uzbekistan – with silk-worms, mulberry bushes, drying cocoons and reels of hand-spun natural silk.

On the day we dropped by (unannounced), we were the only visitors and I think these weavers were a little put-out that we were disturbing their gossiping. They were also particularly surprised that we were even bothering to visit Uzbekistan. I held up our Insight Guides Silk Road guidebook in explanation at which point one gal, the one in the pink dress above, imperiously held out her hand for the book. I handed it her open on the page referencing the factory. She took it, flipped back a couple of pages, yelped in surprise and called to her co-workers to come see (I’m assuming that’s what she said because they came over – my Uzbek is non-existent). There was much fussing over the book and pointing at pictures and giggling, as we stood by confused and bemused. Thankfully the owner – who was playing tour guide for us – explained: the women had spotted a friend in the photos in our guidebook. If recognized a friend in a guidebook on Ireland (or Seattle) I’d find that pretty trippy too.

Ice duly broken, the women showed us all around the weaving section of the factory. They explained how they translate patterns, showed us how the looms worked and generally made us feel like we could sit down and join the crew if so inclined. Their work was exquisite but unfortunately too large and too heavy for our backpacks. I made do with a green silk scarf that felt like water in my hands. (It ended up almost causing me an Isadora Duncan-style demise in Tehran, but that’s a story for another day…)

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Wandering in Valparaiso Chile

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I will always remember our day in Valparaiso, Chile as a perfect example of how travel dreams don’t match reality – and that’s OK. I think I secretly thought Valparaiso would be even a tiny bit like the busy trade port described in Allende’s Daughter of Fortune – Panama Canal be damned. It wasn’t. There is a busy port. The ascensores up the steep hills in the old town are still there and working, but Valparaiso is mostly a modern city – with colorful modern graffiti. I was a little sad, but only a little. We had a fabulous day just wandering. I thought my kids weren’t listening when I explained Valparaiso’s important role in pre-canal trade but then months later (in one of the Chinese treaty ports I think) BigB turned to me and said “Oh, this is just like Valparaiso”, so I guess they were listening after all.

Read more about visiting Chile with Children.

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